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A FRENCH SILVER-PLATED DUCK PRESS
MARK OF CHRISTOFLE, CIRCA 1935.
A FRENCH SILVER-PLATED DUCK PRESS, MARK OF CHRISTOFLE, CIRCA 1935.
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Standing on a pair of flared legs with turned details at the base, the front and back of the press are hinged, and opens to reveal a removable pot with strainer, fitted with a spout. The press is a flat disc driven by a turn screw with a wheel at the top. The press is mounted on a kidney shaped wood base. 24 in. (60.9 cm.) high.
The habit of crushing any cooked carcass to extract all that nourishing goodness from the bones dates back to prehistoric times – certainly it was common practice in medieval Italian kitchens, judging by the illustration from Bartolomeo Scappi’s encyclopedia published in 1570 – but it was only during the 19th century that this method as applied to duck achieved widespread recognition, thanks to the efforts of the Rouen restaurateur Mechenet and the enthusiasm of his patron, the Duke of Chartres.
On one of his regular trips to Paris, the Duke recommended pressed Rouen duck to Frederic at Le Tour d’Argent and he proceeded to make it his signature dish. In fact, so beloved of the chef was this dish that he decided to number every bird served in this fashion; in 1890 the Prince of Wales, who was to become Edward VII, sat down in the restaurant and consumed duck No. 328; in 1921, Emperor Hirohito ate No. 53,211; in 1948, Princess Elizabeth, as she was then, shared No 185,397 with her young husband Prince Philip; in 1954, President Kennedy ate No. 245,200. In 1955 duck No. 253,652 was presented to Charlie Chaplin in the following manner: the aiguillettes (thin slices of breast) were laid in a pan of reduced red wine on the hot plate and the legs removed and broiled. The stripped carcass was then crushed under the press (in full view of the customer) and the resulting juices thickened with butter, sharpened with cognac and poured over the meat.
On April 29th 2003, La Tour d’Argent celebrated the millionth serving of its long-standing house speciality – pressed duck.
Vault 2 • The London Silver Vaults • 53 Chancery Lane • London WC2A 1QS
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